Author Topic: Threadripper & Ryzen only builds (3rd Gen starts on page 50)  (Read 519916 times)

2020-04-27, 21:28:23
Reply #1095

mattspaeth

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Is anyone in here running a custom loop? I've been eyeing up Corsair's Hydro X system.

2020-04-28, 11:21:21
Reply #1096

Juraj

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Is anyone in here running a custom loop? I've been eyeing up Corsair's Hydro X system.

Any particular reason for Corsair's system?

The radiators from Corsair are made by HardwareLabs, those are one of the best. Who makes the rest of stuff is questionable and changes but most importantly they don't have good Threadripper block.
So you would have to buy the one from someone else (Heatkiller IV or EKWB Velocity).

The block is the most important stuff, the rest barely matters.
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2020-04-28, 18:08:18
Reply #1097

mattspaeth

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Any particular reason for Corsair's system?

I am a custom loop noob and I'm a little nervous about putting water in my PC. I was watching this video and the rep was saying that you have the backing of a large company like Corsair in case a component fails and causes damage.

I didn't know their Threadripper blocks weren't good.

Most likely, I'll use the IceGiant and see how it goes. Everything should be here for the build this week.

2020-04-28, 18:35:25
Reply #1098

twoheads

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So After few weeks of faultless work yesterday my system literally died. When I hit power button on my case it started to boot and after about 3 seconds just turned off completely. No power led's on motherboard, no smoke or smell of melted plastic, no signs of life whatsoever.  Tried few different outlets - same thing. Checked just PSU (seasonic prime gold 1300) and it seems ok (vent is working). Need to plug another PSU to confirm if it's MB...... damn, that's exactly what I needed right now.

2020-04-28, 19:03:48
Reply #1099

mattspaeth

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So After few weeks of faultless work yesterday my system literally died. When I hit power button on my case it started to boot and after about 3 seconds just turned off completely. No power led's on motherboard, no smoke or smell of melted plastic, no signs of life whatsoever.  Tried few different outlets - same thing. Checked just PSU (seasonic prime gold 1300) and it seems ok (vent is working). Need to plug another PSU to confirm if it's MB...... damn, that's exactly what I needed right now.

That sucks. That sounds like exactly what happened to my 1st gen system. It was the motherboard. It died on boot as well.

2020-04-28, 19:57:22
Reply #1100

frame9

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Hi everyone

First of all thanks again Juraj for your help!

I wanted to share my experience with my build. Maybe this helps someone.

my system:

case: meshify s2
board: Asus TRX-40 Pro
cpu: 3970x
ram: 64GB gskill ripjaws V 3600Mhz (F4-3600C16Q-64GVKC)
cooler: noctua nh-u14s tr4-sp3 + Noctua NF A-15
graphic card: RTX 2060 Super Evo Turbo
psu: bequiet straight power 11, 1000W premium

first psu made crackling noises when turned on and off so i had to get a new one. works good now, but i'm not sure if it's the best choice.
latest bios update was needed to recognize the ram
one of the fans (not sure yet which on) sounds a bit metallic (don't know how to explain it) but it's ok for me
system running smooth so far. fingers crossed
cpu temps are around 40°C, 80°C under load
ram is running at standard 2133Mhz for now
corona bench 30s

compared to my previous system it's a beast! :)

best
tobias



2020-04-29, 09:07:25
Reply #1101

Juraj

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So After few weeks of faultless work yesterday my system literally died. When I hit power button on my case it started to boot and after about 3 seconds just turned off completely. No power led's on motherboard, no smoke or smell of melted plastic, no signs of life whatsoever.  Tried few different outlets - same thing. Checked just PSU (seasonic prime gold 1300) and it seems ok (vent is working). Need to plug another PSU to confirm if it's MB...... damn, that's exactly what I needed right now.

Jeez...that absolutely sucks. Both PSU and Motherboard? :- (

In last 10 years I've build 20 PCs at least...and never had a single faulty component (or my memory can be getting senile...but I would have remembered some serious stuff). The fault rate is usually sub 2perc. for most PC components, so someone does eventually get unlucky.
It's seems counter-intuitive why it's often very expensive motherboards, but they're very niche, small run products. The most expensive board ever, Asus ROG Dominus (2000 euro) had fault rate of 50+ perc. :- ).

Just one thing to check... memory issues often manifest in crashing PCs into cold boot that require pulling the plug from socket (or PSU) to restart. Asus board did this quite often to me when I tried testing memory speeds on X399 (Zenith Alpha gen1).
The board doesn't give you any meaningful Q-Code? Did you try clearing the CMOS?


secondary HDD - 10TB SkyHawk Surveillance HDD 3.5" SATA 7200RPM

Absolutely don't buy "Surveillance" HDD :- ). Specialized HDDs, like for Surveillance (which are heavily optimized for continual write, at expense of random), or Backup drives (much faster write speeds, but far worse reads,etc..) are really only meant for that particular purpose.
This is different compared to NAS drives, which really are just rebranded regular drives, not actual enterprise level drives. Those are all-purpose.

But this leads to your second question:


In terms of general use, I usually just install my programs on my main NVMe  hard drive and my assets on a secondary HDD (mechanical)  A friend of mine suggested using the NVMe main drive (or even a NVMe  secondary) for scene projects and regular use assets (ie megascans/poliigon) - is there any merit to this as to whether its best practice for loading times?

Yes, running everything on SSD is massively beneficial. It doesn't have to be NVMe (SSDs that use much faster PCI-e instead of SATA as interface). In fact, such drives are mainly beneficial for continuous read/writes of large amounts of data, think transfering 200 GB of Photos. Loading 2GB 3dsMax project, 2GB Photoshop project, with 1GB assets? Not even a million fraction of second improvement, because those are bottlenecked by their respective software IO speeds.

It's possible to buy 6.5TB Enterprise PCIe drives from Samsung on eBay at 1/2 the original cost. Not super cheap, but comparatively to buying 3x 2TB mainstream drives. And they offer power-loss protection, massive lifetimes, etc.. but none of those are replacement for back up.
I am using these ones https://www.ebay.de/itm/6-4TB-Samsung-PM1725a-5DWPD-Enterprise-TLC-V-NAND-PCIe-3-0-x8-NVMe-HHHL-AIC-SSD/372860281583

But even regular SATA (even the cheapest QLC drives like Samsung 860 QVO) are much better (and silent!)



Cooling - i was recommended to get the Noctua NH-U14S but a user on this forum is saying he is getting 100c temps on a stress test?
A friend of mine bought the Coolermaster MasterLiquid ML360 RGB TR4 EDITION and is saying under coroan rendering, never goes above 65c which is great i guess.  It has 3x120mm fans.


Stress tests are meant to stress your PC, they are up to 20C higher than regular usage.

Your friend has the same CPU you are looking at? ML360 is definitely not better than Noctua. It's regular Asetek AIO like all other, only with bigger coldplate stuck to it (but the water inlet is still only in middle).
It will do ok job for 3960/3970X because they have dies in middle but definitely not better.

Only compare temperatures if your friend has the exact CPU, runs the exact benchmark, and has the same conditions (Room temperature, case airflow). Otherwise all these "He has that, and She has that" are absolutely random uncomparable numbers.

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2020-04-29, 12:12:57
Reply #1102

shortcirkuit

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Juraj thanks for your reply.

I cant afford that hard drive - too expensive here when converting to AUD.

As a backup SSD - my local supplier has these:
https://www.centrecom.com.au/hard-drives-ssd?specs=796,350,361
Im thinking of this one?  Do you think this will be a good choice?
https://www.centrecom.com.au/seagate-ironwolf-pro-10tb-35-nas-hard-drive-st10000ne0008

For my main drive - im thinking this then.
https://www.centrecom.com.au/samsung-860-qvo-4tb-25-sata-ssd-mz-76q4t0bw

So correct me if i am wrong on my logic here:
3DS MAX Scene projects, save to SSD.  Ill try and have my main textures (poliigon/megascans etc) located on this 4TB drive.
All previous models/textures will be on the HDD (as ive got way too many to fit on this SSD).
When a job is completed and finished, archive it to the HDD.

What are your thoughts on this?

Like i said in my previous post, i have a Strix GTX 1080 - im thinking of getting a GTX 2080 - mainly for viewport performance for larger scenes as mine slows down a little after 15m polys.  Is it much quicker than a 1080 in your opinion or much of a muchness?

One more thing, the motherboard recommended to me is the Gigabyte TRX40 AORUS PRO, do you recommend anything else or is this a good choice?

Sorry for the newb questions, i really want to get this right.

Thanks again.





2020-04-29, 13:13:27
Reply #1103

Juraj

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The HDD choice is somewhat lottery. WD is more reputable and comes out ahead in Backblaze faultrate charts compared to competition. Red Pro is a very solid choice. But here is more explanation:
https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Understanding-the-WD-Rainbow-674/

Your suggested workflow is good. My Projects + Assets are less than 4TB ;- ) But I don't hoard shit (I own exactly zero Evermotion scenes). After the project is completed, I "clean it" (keep only final scenes & final PSDs, delete all rest) but keep on same drive.

860 QVO is good enough for anything. In higher capacity (+1 TB) these drives have enough cache so you don't notice any drawbacks and their longevity is still basically "immortal" when used on projects & assets. But like all consumer SSDs, they lack any data loss protection, so make sure to back-up frequently, ideally to external source (it can be cloud, NAS or just good old external hard-drive stored somewhere safe).

Keep your 1080, there will be no improvements in viewport, this is all bottlenecked by 3dsMax, no amount of powerful GPU will help. I am using Quadro RTX 5000, which is Quadro equivalent of 2080. There is absolutely no improvement compared to my 1080ti in 3dsMax 2016.
It's possible viewport improves in higher versions, some people report that, but I've never tried them. But definitely don't waste money on 2xxx generation if you already own a card.

All the boards seem to be good. It's hard to say which one is better than other, there aren't many of them so there are few reports of their reliability outside of original reviews. It's best to choose on features you want, this is where they differentiate somewhat (like offering 10gbit ethernet at lower price point, offering quad double-slot layout, only one board has Thunderbolt 3, etc...)
Please follow my new Instagram for latest projects, tips&tricks, short video tutorials and free models
Behance  Probably best updated portfolio of my work
lysfaere.com Please check the new stuff!

2020-04-29, 13:24:52
Reply #1104

shortcirkuit

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awesome!  Thanks so much Juraj - exactly what i needed and great explanation!
Ive got a lot of unreal scenes hence a huge amount of allocated space - i too have limited assets.

RE 1080 - thats great to know, at least that will save me some money - im glad there isnt a difference!  Its worked well for me till now except i had to reorder the fans on it as one of them gave in!

Ill read that link you sent now - once again, hugely appreciated and thanks so much!  All is clear!

The HDD choice is somewhat lottery. WD is more reputable and comes out ahead in Backblaze faultrate charts compared to competition. Red Pro is a very solid choice. But here is more explanation:
https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Understanding-the-WD-Rainbow-674/

Your suggested workflow is good. My Projects + Assets are less than 4TB ;- ) But I don't hoard shit (I own exactly zero Evermotion scenes). After the project is completed, I "clean it" (keep only final scenes & final PSDs, delete all rest) but keep on same drive.

860 QVO is good enough for anything. In higher capacity (+1 TB) these drives have enough cache so you don't notice any drawbacks and their longevity is still basically "immortal" when used on projects & assets. But like all consumer SSDs, they lack any data loss protection, so make sure to back-up frequently, ideally to external source (it can be cloud, NAS or just good old external hard-drive stored somewhere safe).

Keep your 1080, there will be no improvements in viewport, this is all bottlenecked by 3dsMax, no amount of powerful GPU will help. I am using Quadro RTX 5000, which is Quadro equivalent of 2080. There is absolutely no improvement compared to my 1080ti in 3dsMax 2016.
It's possible viewport improves in higher versions, some people report that, but I've never tried them. But definitely don't waste money on 2xxx generation if you already own a card.

All the boards seem to be good. It's hard to say which one is better than other, there aren't many of them so there are few reports of their reliability outside of original reviews. It's best to choose on features you want, this is where they differentiate somewhat (like offering 10gbit ethernet at lower price point, offering quad double-slot layout, only one board has Thunderbolt 3, etc...)

2020-04-29, 14:03:39
Reply #1105

twoheads

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Jeez...that absolutely sucks. Both PSU and Motherboard? :- (

In last 10 years I've build 20 PCs at least...and never had a single faulty component (or my memory can be getting senile...but I would have remembered some serious stuff). The fault rate is usually sub 2perc. for most PC components, so someone does eventually get unlucky.
It's seems counter-intuitive why it's often very expensive motherboards, but they're very niche, small run products. The most expensive board ever, Asus ROG Dominus (2000 euro) had fault rate of 50+ perc. :- ).

Just one thing to check... memory issues often manifest in crashing PCs into cold boot that require pulling the plug from socket (or PSU) to restart. Asus board did this quite often to me when I tried testing memory speeds on X399 (Zenith Alpha gen1).
The board doesn't give you any meaningful Q-Code? Did you try clearing the CMOS?

I don't know if it's "just" MB or MB+PSU. Tested PSU and it works (at least fan is spinning when passive mode is turned off). The code on MB usually was AA and the system was absolutely stable for 3 weeks or something. No problems whatsoever: under load, idle you name it (not even single BSOD). The problem is the MB is completely dead. I can't turn it on manually or clear CMOS because it is.....dead.
Now I need to plug another PSU to MB to confirm if it's it or not, I don't have any at the moment so I took workstation to my friend's friend who has one and hopefully will help me verify it. Anyway I have a bad feeling about it and I'm indeed fucked in the middle of commissioned work.

2020 so far so good! ;)


2020-04-29, 19:28:15
Reply #1106

twoheads

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My friend just confirmed that MB indeed is dead. With new PSU it shows no sign of life. I'm sending it back and it will take up to 30 working days :(

2020-05-02, 20:37:19
Reply #1107

twoheads

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I don't know what's going on with my Aorus master yet, nonetheless I'd like to ask just in case.
Hopefully all of this is just bad luck, but somehow I don't feel comfortable with aorus anymore (yeah I know it's an absurd) Would you recommend keeping aorus master or choose something else instead? I'm also sending back PSU for checking but what about CPU and RAM? I'm pretty sure they are fine but you never know, maybe I should send them as well?

thanks in advance
TH

2020-05-03, 13:03:14
Reply #1108

Juraj

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That's hard to answer. It's perfectly reasonable to lose trust and try something else, nothing absurd about it at all. Which one is least to be troubled? It's leap of faith. Just for interest I went to quickly browse through the Zenith thread on overclock.net forum and it seems to have all sorts of issues.. but then again, it's also massively more popular so who can tell what the percentage of issues is. Although one thing..looks like the Asus bios is once again shit-show. Well that's 3rd generation of Asus high-end boards with that..so.

The Optimus guys are later than me in deadlines, which is something to behold ;- ). But I love these shots from their twitter, can't wait how my nickle cold-plate & black anodized frame will look.





Please follow my new Instagram for latest projects, tips&tricks, short video tutorials and free models
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2020-05-03, 14:01:31
Reply #1109

twoheads

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Thanks Juraj,

Vendors fix boards or replace them with brand new? If it's gonna make things easier and faster I'll stick to aorus, if not I'll ask for full refund and buy something else.


Those optimus shots look amazing, is it fstorm? ;)